As a result, my way of making creams at home is definitely changed over time and I wanted to share with you some random advice I've learned over time to create the creams more beautiful:) and spignattare in joy!
Council No. 1: On xanthan.
first. meantime I recommend you buy the xanthan gum from Aroma-Zone.com selling able to clear seems to me to give the gel less greedy than normal.
1b. I think it's better to prepare the gel of xanthan cold: put water in a container and pour over it "rain" the xanthan and leave to soak for a few hours, then given a score at or pureed trick as I could and let it rest again until the next day.
If you do not want to wait all this time, you can already use the gel once the xanthan is well hydrated, without blending or wait.
However, it is a method that requires patience taaaanta - which I normally do not have - but in doing so the there are no bubbles in the gel, which happens if you prepare the gel on the spot and then blend: in my opinion, are those bubbles in the cream and if there is dense, will not go away no more: in addition to being unsightly, they undermine the stability of the Our cream. Definitely the bubbles are out:)
1c. Recently it was discovered that the creams containing xanthan give a feeling of greater moisture on the skin, so it's always good to add even one of our 0.1% aqueous phase.
Council No. 2: the carbomer.
second. Using carbomer ( Tego Carbomer o Carbomer 940 della Farmacia Vernile):
in un contenitore dove avete messo l'acqua, versate sopra a pioggia il carbomer e avete due possibilità:
- lo lasciate a idratare completamente e il gel viene meglio,
- frullate finché non spariscono tutti i grumi.
Una volta pronto, il gel sarà ancora bruttino e grumoso e va "tamponato" (ha ph 4 e va alzato a 6) aggiungendoci qualche goccia di s oluzione di soda caustica * e vedrete che si formerà un bel gel denso.
Mi raccomando di aggiungere una goccia alla volta poiché, se esagerate, rischiate di alzare troppo il ph e il gel *puff* si smonta.
Se avete la fortunate to be in the possession of Carbopol ULTREZ 21, the gel is much faster: just pour in the Carbopol water, wait a maximum of 3 minutes and rub with soda and voila! the gel is ready beautiful: a different life. I know that the Pharmacy
Vernon put in the list Carbopol ULTREZ 10 will not be as spectacular as the ULTREZ 21 but I understand from the suppliers' websites should be easier to use than the carbomer "classic."
2b. The Carbomer is a type a bit 'delicate !
I said that a carbomer gel may not have a pH above 6 or else we can say good-bye with his hand. Similarly, it does not tolerate salt.
Consequently, there are some ingredients which do not get along:
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: it is a salt (or the vitamin C - ascorbic acid)
- Aloe
- Sodium PCA, sodium lactate, potassium sorbate and Sodium benzoate: all salt
- Surfactants: contain quaternized salt
- Protein and Panthenol: who are specialists in removing creams and cleansers
As far as I'm concerned, to live with the carbomer, and the assets have raised the percentage of ' use up to 1% e forse più (di norma lo utilizzo allo 0,3%).
2c. Quando facciamo una crema con il carbomer, non tamponiamo il gel prima di emulsionare ma dopo aver aggiunto la fase C. Così facendo, sara più facile lavorare la crema che rimarrà più fluida in fase di emulsione e di aggiunta della fase C.
Se però intendete aggiungere "attivi smontanti", conviene tamponare prima della loro aggiunta così vi eviterete dei grumi che non se ne andranno più via.
A volte è un mondo difficile, lo so!!!
Dulcis in fundo, un super-topic sul carbomer, dal forum di Lola, qui .
* Soluzione soda : 20 grams of soda on which you will pour 80 grams of water to cool (heat up) in a container and bottle with dropper.
Council No. 3 : thick cream every time.
To me, the face cream jar and dense like . Initially, my aim was the formulation of creams entirely EcoBio but I was just ugly greedy and liquid ... could not be seen, the fault of xanthan. So I switched to the carbomer gel that gives good density and no filming.
few months ago, however, always from the forums Lola, was revealed the secret to get lovely thick cream without the carbomer. As you can see, this is a process a bit 'longish but I shorten this:
after emulsified cream, I put in a cold water bath (change the water in the pot in short) and start to blend for at least 10 minutes until the cream does not thicken, and suddenly at that moment, you have to stop to prevent fluid return.
The counter is that by doing so we must pay special attention not to incorporate bubbles as possible.
Council No. 4: The final frullatina.
give as a final frullatina your cream even after the addition of phase C.
So we are sure that everything is well mixed, the cream will thicken more and have a finer texture and thus better. Or conversely, do not give the final frullatina if you do not want the cream thickens too much.
Council No. 5: color.
Often the yellowish cream is because of the active colored by adding a few drops of water-soluble red dye we can make it pink. A little 'more fascinating, no?
Council No. 6 : the active powder.
To add powdered activated in phase C, please also first dissolve. If we have an active
liposolubile lo scioglieremo in un po' di olio, meglio se uno di quelli olietti leggero sintetici (ma bio) che di solito hanno una buona capacità solvente. Allo stesso modo, gli attivi idrosolubili si sciolgono preventivamente in acqua che sconteremo da quella prevista dalla ricetta.
Consiglio n. 7: evitare le bolle.
Le bolle si formano soprattutto se spignattiamo piccole quantità di crema, se ne facciammo almeno 200 gr riusciamo a frullare con il minipimer in modo più uniforme poiché questo è ben immerso nell'emulsione.
Consiglio n. 8: emulsione a freddo o a caldo?
Per la maggior parte delle mie creme, I prefer to emulsify hot but then it depends .
In principle, I find the most moisturizing creams emulsified with warm and comfortable while emulsified cold are more "fresh and light" perhaps more suited to those who have excessively dry skin. For example, in the face d ' winter use an emulsified cream hot summer while a cream made of cold.
Clearly, the choice depends dall'emulsionante same: an example is the Cold Emulsifier Gélisucre or serums that I use for light, watery liquid that I want to be close and that give a feeling of "water on the skin." I do not think you can get it with a hot emulsifier, however, other emulsifiers a freddo (comel'Albilcare) danno creme più corpose del Gélisucre ma meno degli emulsionanti a caldo. (Frase da rileggere, vero?)
Consiglio n. 9: non "fissarsi".
Quando avete intenzione di copiare una ricetta da questo blog o da qualsiasi altro forum o sito, non fissatevi sui singoli ingredienti ma cercate di individuare quali possono essere quelli strettamente necessari alla riuscita dello spignatto. Non fermiamoci di fronte a quello che lì per lì può sembrarci un ostacolo.
Consiglio n. 10: ad occhi chiuso no, però!
Spignattare è bello ma non buttiamoci ad occhi chiusi ! There is still dancing in a vital organ, the skin.
Before you begin, head ficchiamoci:
- the doses of the preservatives (it is a major cause of irritation),
- such as essential oils can be used in cosmetics and that doses and to sensitize it takes a while,
- the characteristics of the active ingredients that we use and their doses of use,
- to fill any doubt there is.
was also a simple cream, you must be sure of what we're doing, you do not like cooking where sometimes we can go fancy and intuition ... I do not want to alarm but it takes a minimum of attention.
I finally arrived at the end!
I hope this article will be helpful and seemed to have pulled out some interesting though as I said there is always plenty to learn and only the experience of a group of spignattatori can discover the new horizons of cosmetics DIY;
-P Let me know what you think or if you have corrections, are all ears!
soon, Pat
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